MOOG Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link

My OEM End Links had worn out ball sockets, and the plastic bushings inside them were shot, so I got a LOT of chatter and clunking in my SUV front end suspension noise on roads with lightly rough surfaces. I could not tell by looking at them, or even shaking them. This was on my 2005 Mazda Tribute, but this is the same for Ford Explorer SUV's and other SUV's in that range. These were easy to replace once the wheels are removed. Just two nuts per piece. The suspension chatter clunking noise is mostly all gone, there might be a loose busing in there now, but much better than before, and corning is a bit smoother. I used the Zerk Fittings enclosed and shot about 4 squirts of bearing grease with a grease gun, until it started to come out of the seal. The OEM ones were made out of pig metal some pot aluminum alloy, one was even bent. This ought to fix your problem as well.

Bought two for my Escape Hybrid. I encountered the bolt length issue others have described when trying to insert the bottom stud through the mounting holes in the stabilizer bar. However, turning the steering wheel afforded me enough clearance to insert both studs. The original sway bars (pictured here) require installation of the zerk fittings, have an internally held stud (use a 4mm allen key to hold it) and require either a 14mm wrench or a ratcheting dogbone to install. It is a pain in the rear, as the required position of both tools does not allow much travel beyond 10 degrees or so. Unfortunately, both sway bars instantly failed as the boots pulled off after two days and all the grease came out. I took one back to return it under warranty and discovered that Moog has apparently slipped a new part in lieu of the one in the picture. The new one has much more robust joints, a thicker rod and internally secured boots. Additionally, the zerk fittings come pre-installed, rather than the self-tapping ones in the picture above. Best of all, it includes a square stator on each end that allows for securing of the stud while tightening the nut-- thus allowing for the use of a normal ratchet (15mm, though) So, try to get the newer Moog sway bar, rather than the one in the picture (same part number, so no guarantees). Blue threadlocker is also highly advisable on the studs-- these nuts are not self-locking and will likely begin to back off with time.