Super Comp. Header
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Hooker Headers Super Comp. Header

Part No. 6229HKR Warranty Details  

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Hooker has a complete line of engine swap headers, front frame mounts and transmission mounts for popular engine swaps. Available for Chevy, Chrysler and Ford small block and big block engines. Hooker swap headers and mounts are designed to provide an exact fit when used together. Hooker swap headers add the extra horsepower and torque the serious enthusiast demands. Hooker Headers are the best single improvement you can make.

Product Features:
  • Long Tube Lengths
  • Long Transition Collectors
  • Monstrous Low-Mid Range Torque
  • Keep Top End Horsepower
  • Provides Finest Fit
  • Most Durable Design Available
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Hooker HeadersSuper Comp. Header
 
2.0

(based on 1 review)

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Reviewed by 1 customer

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2.0

6229HKR Headers

By 

from Spokane Washington

About Me Auto Enthusiast

Pros

    Cons

    • Difficult To Install

    Best Uses

    • Racing

    Comments about Hooker Headers Super Comp. Header:

    Really a bear to install. On the right side with the starter. Plan on at least an hour or better to reinstall the starter. All feel to get top bolt and side bolt on starter installed. Number 4 cylinder on passenger side, top bolt impossible to get at unless cut a hole in the fender well. Left side has split the header front and rear part. Instructions tell you to slide slip joint all the way caution don't. Put a hose clamp on the slip joint so it doesn't slid all the way together. You need about two good inches separation between the front and rear part of header for the header to slip around the dip stick. On the number two cylinder lower bolt make sure you use the stud and cut about a half inch of the stud. Make sure you make a good sized dent above the bolt hole on the header otherwise you will not be able to get the nut or the bolt on the stud or the bolt in the hole. Make sure you follow the instructions to cut at least a half inch off the rear motor mount stud. You won't be able to cinch the header down if you don't. Also you will not be able to put the 02 sensor wire holder back on the stud.

    When you get it installed and you want to run it on the street you will have to replace the four cats with two single cats at around 275 per cat. Now you have the big 3.5 inch collector going into a one and five eights inch pipe which will limit the amount of performance you get out of the headers. Another thing use your existing studs where ever you can. Hooker tells you to use their exhaust gaskets but get a set from val pro gaskets. These gaskets are split so there are four gaskets make it much easier to install the gaskets. You will have to shorten the EGR tube. I had part of the tube replaced with flexible steel tubing at a cost of 52 bucks. The front left tube to the AIR valve fits. The right AIR tube needs to be shortened by about an inch and bent to make it fit.

    Also make sure you have a hoist. I am fairly experienced at mechanics and retired and it took me five five hour days to get the headers installed.

    Now to make it street legal in Washington State, like I said before you will have to cut the H pipe right after the cats. Put new cats on a 275 a pop and then weld the H pipe to the collectors.

    So now that I have the headers installed, I am going to take them off and put the old exhaust manifolds back on. Don't think I will get the performance out of the headers. So back under the car. I'll put the headers on E Bay and will take a pretty good hit on the sales price if I can sell them at all.

    I didn't ask enough questions and should have but didn't. Can't fault Holly or Hooker Headers for that. Just think Hooker could have put a heading on the instruction sheet that these headers are not meant to be street legal.

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