Tapered Cone Wheel Bearing Assembly
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Driveworks Tapered Cone Wheel Bearing Assembly

Part No. S-L-68149 Warranty Details  

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Value-priced bearing meets all cataloged application requirements.
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Cone Inside Diameter:1.3772 in
Cone Radius:0.203 in
Cone Width:0.66 in

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1 Question | 1 Answer
Displaying question 1
  • Q:

    how do i install front
    bearings on a 2002 ford escort zx2
    Asked on 1/9/2013 by John from Tampa, Fl

    1 answer



      With reference to your inquiry on the Driveworks Tapered Cone Wheel Bearing Assembly -part# S-L-68149, The instructions for replacing the front wheel bearings on your Ford Escort ZX2 are as follows: If you have an impact gun, or steel rims, you can just remove the wheel and skip the rest of this step. If you have steel rims, you can get to the axle nut by just removing the hub cap. Loosen the lug nuts and jack the car, support it with a jack-stand. From the back of the stock wheel you can knock out the center cap. Looking at the axle nut, you can see that a bit of the outside of the nut is bent into the groove on the tip of the axle. This prevents the nut from coming off while moving. This also prevents you from removing the nut. Using the narrow screwdriver or chisel, hammer into the front of the groove to unbend this part out of the groove. If you have an impact gun, you can go ahead and remove the nut now. If you do not have an impact, then you'll have to follow the rest of this step. Put the wheel back on and secure it with two lug nuts. You don't have to get them very tight, you aren't going to be driving anywhere. Jack the car up to remove the jack-stand then put the car back on the ground. Put the car in gear and use your breaker bar, socket, and cheater bar to remove the axle nut. Be certain your socket sits square on the nut or you'll round it off. After you get the nut off, jack the car back up, put on the jack-stand, then remove the wheel. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end and then loosen the nut until it is flush with the end of the stud. If you have a separator, then use it to get the stud out of the knuckle. If you don't have one, then use the hammer to get the stud out. Remove the nut and pull the tie-rod end out of the knuckle. Remove the brake caliper from the knuckle. Use some string to hold the caliper to the spring or strut out of the way. You don't want to let it hang by the brake hose. At this point you can also remove the rotor. Remove the two upper strut bolts. Remove the nuts and gently try to hammer the bolts out. If you can't get them out that way, use the breaker bar to turn the bolts inside the strut to break them loose. Put the nuts back on flush and use your hammer to beat them out. This prevents you from damaging the threads. If do somehow damage them, you can buy more bolts. Once you get the bolts flush with the strut and you can't pull them out, use the punch to hammer them out the rest of the way. Now you should be able to pull the axle out of the knuckle enough to allow you to get to the nut on top of the ball joint. The ball joint is held in by a nut/bolt and a nut/stud. You should now be able to take the knuckle off the car. Once you have the knuckle out, use a screwdriver to pry the wheel seal out. If you have a press at home, then you should be able to see how to get the old one out and the new one in. If not, then you'll have to take it to a machine shop to have it done. Be certain that you install the new wheel seal when you get it back. Installation is the reverse of removal with the follow exceptions. For any further assistance, please visit your nearest Advance Auto store or call us directly at 1-877-ADVANCE (238-2623) and one of our representatives there would be more than happy to assist you.

      Answered on 1/10/2013 by Vincent from AAP
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